Monday, January 26, 2009

Magnificent Festival Wishing Prosperity for the Year of the ox

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, posters in subway station
This weekend is the Seollal Festival (Lunar New Year) celebrating the arrival of the year of the ox (so long, year of the rat!) They crowned Karen and me Empress and Emperor of the Magnificent Festival Wishing Prosperity etc etc ...

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, posing for photo op
Just kidding, I wanted to get that pic out of the way; but seriously, there were a lot of people wearing costumes, including this little cutie:

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, miniature hanbok
... and these guys:

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village
It's the Lunar New Year, so here are the obligatory photos of lanterns, kite(s) and paper flowers:

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, lanterns
Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, kite
Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, paper flowers
There were numerous performances, samples and demonstrations, including this guy doing a traditional ritual called Charye, honoring ancestors.

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, Charye ritual
You could eat traditionally cooked sweet potatoes or popcorn:

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol VillageSeoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village

You could play traditional games:

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol VillageSeoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village
Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol VillageSeoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village

You could create crafts, like Karen's necklace:

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol VillageSeoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village
Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol VillageSeoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village

It's called the "wishing prosperity" festival because you can follow the traditional method of writing your wish in a ribbon and tying it to your zodiac strand on the wishing tree.

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village
Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village
Or you can write your message of hope on the Message of Hope board.

Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, Karen's message of hope
Seoul Seollal Festival, Namsangol Village, my message of hope
Either way, Happy Lunar New Year to you!

Namsangol Traditional Village

Today I visited the Namsangol Hanok Village on the occasion of the Seollal (New Year) Festival. I'm gong to divide this trip into two posts, one on the Hanok (Traditional) Village, including the Seoul Time Capsule, and one on the New Year's Festivities. Well, three if you count the Chungmuro Station post.

Traditional Hanok Village: The photos below show interior views of traditional houses, followed by the ondol, the floor heating system still used today--well, instead of wood fires and forced air, they generally use hot water.

Namsangol Hanok Village
Namsangol Hanok Village
Namsangol Hanok Village
Courtyards, one filled with kimchi pots, the other festooned with decorative ribbons. And decorative Karen. Be quiet, outside the courtyard is a flock of cranes. Just kidding, they're not real! They are red-crowned cranes, long incorporated into Korean culture and art, and revered as a symbol of fidelity and longevity.

Hanok Village, kimchi pots in courtyard
Hanok Village, courtyard
Hanok Village, red-crested crane models
I've been listening to too much T. Rex:

Me, banging drum in Hanok Village
This shows a wooden race which carries water down the mountain into the holding pond. It's been a dry winter, but just wait until the snow melts.

Water reservoir with race
The village has another, larger pond, which is frozen over right now and on which small children were seen:
Namsangol Village, boy on frozen pondNamsangol Village, frozen pond

Seoul Time Capsule: Buried in 1994 to celebrate the 600th anniversary of Seoul's designation as the capital of Korea, the capsule contains 600 items and is scheduled to be opened in 2395 AD.

Seoul Time Capsule, Namsangol
Seoul Time Capsule, Namsangol
Seoul Time Capsule, Namsangol
Seoul Time Capsule, Namsangol

Coolest. Subway. Station. Ever.

On my way to the New Year Festival at Namsangol Hanok Village, I encountered Chungmuro Station for the first time. Most of the stations I've been in (quite a few, but probably not a tenth of the total--hell, there are entire lines I haven't ridden) are fairly nondescript, even if highly functional. Some make a token effort to display art (Itaewon), others are massive architectural edifices (Noksapyeong), but this one is unique, and unique at three different levels.

First, in the tunnel, it looks like the bedrock is exposed--there's a station on MARTA in Atlanta like that. But when you give the stone a tap, it reveals it's fiberglass facing.

Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4
Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4
When you pass through the turnstile and turn left, you see this:

Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4
It is apparently a tribute to the Korean movie awards, because around the corner, the whole hallway is covered in awards show stills:

Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4
Finally, the entry plaza walls are covered in decorative tile murals. And check out those crazy phone kiosks.

Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4
Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4Chungmuro Station. line 3 and 4

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Chicken, Street-Style

Buy the Way
Around the corner from this convenience store (Buy the Way, get it? - a rare example of the well-executed Engish pun in Korea), you will usually find a rotisserie chicken vendor operating from a specially-equipped truck. Well, today it was a steamed crab guy, operating from a specially-equipped truck.

steamed crab vendor
Though I enjoy steamed crab, blogging about it earlier really got me in the mood for the chicken, so I pressed on. The other such vendor I know of is about six blocks back in the other direction, near the Gangseo-gu Medical Center busstop. Fine. The whole point was a nice long walk, this is just a bonus:

rotisserie chicken truck
I walk right past a certain well-known convenience store on the way back, and pop in to get a bottle of beer for afters. There are generally three sizes here: 500 cc, 1 L and 1.6 L. Guess which one I got?

Seven-Eleven
The photos below show the whole and the half. Delicious!

rotisserie chicken, 6000 W
stuffed w/rice, herbs and fruit