Showing posts with label makkuli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label makkuli. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Photos From Tanner

I fear I have been a poor host to visitors to my virtual patch of Seoul lately, all while (I hope) being a good one for the guest n my real patch. So, to make it up, I'll post some pretty pictures for you to enjoy, taken by Tanner during his stay, now alas concluded.
The neon lights of Guro-gu
Pocha outside Guro Digital station
Rice cakes in Insa-dong
Samcheong-dong hanok maeul

TB at frozen fountain in Deoksugung
Marksmanship game at Story of Yi Sun-shin at Gwanghwamun
The signs say it all: "Country makgeolli, one glass, 1000 won"

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Bongcheon Redux

I took my 친구 Chris, The Stumbling Engineer, on the grand tour of Bongcheon 양꼬치, 막걸리 and 서을대 last evening and I think it's fair to say the experience exceeded our expectations.

Apparently, and I was informed of this soundly by all concerned, it's been far too long since I came round these parts--I was greeted like a long-lost son at every turn! Now, Andy and Nick were there with me when we saw the 양꼬치 (yang ggochi lamb skewer) place go up in flames. We simply adjourned to a similar shop a few doors down. Admittedly, we had been back to Nohwang Yang-ggochi at least once since then--Baseball Opening Day. In the meantime, we experimented with oter locales for our lamb skewers, including Daerim and Guro Digital--but for my money, Bongcheon is still it!

After a delicious and filling encounter with Nohwang's marinated lamb, we went down the road. Where I was shocked to hear from our cool-ass makgeolli-house owner-dude that it's been il-nyun since I put in an appearance for 막걸리. One year? No way--I think he's forgetting the afternoon when the gang went indoor fishing ...

Still, many of my visits here have been memorable--and not just seeing the restaurant we were planning to dine in reduced to embers. For instance, there was the time some drunk asshole didn't like the way Nick looked (or something else, but we prefer to think it was about Nick ...) and there followed a hour-long drama long of scuffles, take-downs, incompetent police interventions, and even massages. Then there was the time a patron serenaded us with a tune I like to call "The Led Liver Valley":


If you're so inclined, you could see all my blog posts (though not all my experiences) on the "Bongcheon lamb skewer, magkeolli and Seouldae/Sillim tour" by clicking here.

Well, sharing the tour with Chris turned out to be totally boffo! Not only did we receive the royal welcome, but when we sat at the magkeolli-jib, eating Korean omelette and sipping unfiltered rice wine from well-used metal bowls, another patron decided to do our portraits in pen-and-ink. The owner-dude is a retired graphic arts teacher, so perhaps, as Chris speculated, his establishment draws local artists. I don't know.

Still, bold, sure strokes on the reverse of a jewelry store notepad, and after five minutes, he gave me this:

A flattering likeness, and yet another reason to love Bongcheon!

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Makin' Makgeolli

About a week ago, on Buddha's Birthday, I went to a 막걸리 makgeolli making class that I read about on Jo-Anna's website. Makgeolli is a traditional Korean rice wine, flavorful and strong. I have sung its praises in this space before. Today we went back (actually, met up at a cute little traveller's cafe in Jonggak) to sample our rice wine and take it home.

To begin, we each had a bowl containing 600 g 고두밥 godubap, an undercooked, steamed rice and 120 g 누룩 nuruk, yeast.


To this was added in stages 450 ml "starter" or base liquor and 900 ml water.


We then mixed and mixed by hand, breaking down the chunks of nuruk (that's Jo-Anna on the end in the photo), and poured everything into the big jug to ferment.


It ferments at room temperature for about a week, stirring daily, until it separates and gas bubbles cease forming.

Finally, water down your finished makgeolli a little and sweeten it a bit. Bottoms up!

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Today's News

International Desk: The devastating earthquake in Haiti continues to top the reporting here, as Dong-A Ilbo files a story about the Korean government "offering" USD 10 million for relief and rebuilding efforts. Korea Times leads with a suggestion that the government "is considering dispatching peacekeeping forces to earthquake-hit Haiti in a bid to help relief activities and maintain public order, a government official said Tuesday."

Also, some number of Facebook subscribers wore red clothing today, as if that would do anything to help matters at all. Many Haitians also wore red, but that was actually their blood or the blood of their loved ones.

(My personal suggestion, give to Partners in Health, Dokte Paul Farmer's organization I profiled here a while ago.)

Local Desk: A lower court today cleared TV producers of all charges relating to a program in which they lied like a Persian rug about the possibility of obtaining "crazy cow" disease from tainted American beef. In its ruling, the court said, "The contents of the program were within the boundaries of freedom of press." Curiously, the decision is painted here as one of "conservative" prosecutors vs. "liberal" judges.

The Times leads with a report that Universal Studios will finally bring a decent amusement park to Korea with real cartoon characters that anyone has ever heard of.

me with Bugs Bunny, Six Flags, Spring 2003
Weather: The cold snap has come to an end, with high temps yesterday and today being above freezing. However, it drizzled all day, slowly melting the piles of snow that hug every curb, turned black by road residue and the settling of airborne pollutants. Walking to work was a real treat for your humble narrator--well, it would have been, but I turned around and took the subway.

Sports: The Taeguk Warriors rebounded from a pair of friendly losses to beat Finland 2 - 0 Tuesday, says the Times.
The match against Finland is seen as preparation for the match against Greece at the World Cup.
“It’s difficult to say which team is better, Greece or Finland. But today, Finland did not play very well,” the boss explained.
Huh explained that his team must be more active in defending against the taller, stronger Europeans, especially when they are on the attack near the Korean net.

In other soccer news, storied athlete Seol Ki-hyeon has signed to play for Pohang Steelers, as his club career in Europe seems poised to wind down as he enters his thirties.

Makkuli Desk: "Name one person and one thing that are most associated with Korea University," began the article by Oh Young-jin and Kang Shin-who in the Korea Times. Well, after nearly a year and a half here, I thought I should know something like this, but I was stumped. Actually, now that I know the answer, I'm still stumped.

Turns out, Korea University, which is basically Korea's answer to Harvard, one of the three prestigious universities known as SKY (Seoul National, Korea, Yonsei), is planning to produce its own brand of makkuli, a fermented rice wine a bit stronger than beer, in a pilot plant set to open in May.

Now, I did my fair share of drinking in college (actually, I probably drank for two or three, but let's not get into that), and in my day, colleges even had watering holes on campus (the Golden Spur was in the student union at USC, for example), but we didn't have our own brand of hooch!

Sunday, September 13, 2009

My Weekend Activities

Last night--Saturday--I got together with Andy (for the first time since New Zealand) and Greg for lamb skewers and makkuli in Bongcheon. It's been about three months (Wow!) since the last time I partook in this delightful ritual of ours, and I can assure you that it has lost none of its charm, deliciousness, or inebriating power, during the absence.

Still, I passed on third course in Itaewon, where Greg and Andy headed next, having visited that locale on Thursday for the trivia game at 3 Alley Pub--and left with what my Dad calls a "splitting headache". We came in sixth, despite knowing almost everything. I'm positive that you have to cheat to win nowadays.

Anyway, just as well, since the makkuli was particularly strong last night. I am famous for leaving Bongcheon just in time to get kicked off the subway at Sindorim, on its last run. I beat the odds, and made my line 9 connection at Dangsan with time to spare.

I awoke this morning feeling a little delicate, but as it was such a glorious day, I soon ventured forth into the Gang-seo (west-of-the-river) morning. A brisk walk around the neighborhood gets the heart started. The temperature was mild, the sky blue and clear, the wind a gentle breeze that mitigated the warm sunshine perfectly.

Later on, I couldn't resist sitting in the park (not the Hangang Park, but the little MaeHwa Park beside my building) for a couple of hours reading a book.

MaeHwa Park, next to Weve Building, Deungchon dong
As a result, I am a hundred-and-twenty-some pages into The People of the Book, a novel by Geraldine Brooks. About a book. I love books. This one is about a Jewish prayer book called the Sarajevo Haggadah (which is a genuine relic, though the account is fictionalized), and its path across Europe beginning in the fifteenth century, framed by a modern conservator. Sort of like The DaVinci Code, but more like The Name of the Rose ...

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Another 'Meeting', A Different Duck

... this one of the Young-il first grade teachers. Mr Lee Gum-cheon told me about it at about 10 o'clock today, so I had to rearrange some things or else miss out on free food and alcohol.

As I mentioned yesterday (or tomorrow if you're reading down the page), I had no classes today, but had to come in just the same. I spent a part of the morning dozing off, until I was awakened by the principal knocking at my lonely office door, which is all the way down the corridor, the last left before the stairs.

"Come in!" I yelled, startled suddenly awake, brandishing the pen I was unconsciously grasping as if writing in the notebook open on my desk. "Come in!"

"Ah, Mister Cam-BRELL," he said upon entering. "How you like your new classroom?"

"Huh--wha--?" I said, dazed. "They finished?" It was 9:05 AM.

"Come see!"

Well, I did, only to find that the room was exactly as it had been when I arrived at 7:45, which meant the furniture mentioned in my last post had been unloaded and placed in the room, higgledy-piggledy, still wrapped in plastic. The computer gear was still boxed up.

Anyway, long story short, now that I was up, as it were, I made myself useful, and kind of grimy, by removing the plastic wrappers on all the desks and chairs. This was more arduous than it sounds. Somewhere in there, Mr Lee told me about the teacher meeting at 5:00; Mr Hwang came by as promised, and we went for galbitang; I ended up completing several errands and came back to school to find Miss Lee Cheong-hyun waiting for me outside my office--I was fifteen minutes early.

We went to a duck restaurant about a ten minute walk from the school, another Korean style place with floor seating, for a dish called something like garlic seasoned spicy grilled duck. I tried to memorize the Hangeul, but the computer won't let me type it, so obviously I got something wrong.

Anyway, the adjumma explained that this duck is fed garlic throughout its life so its meat will be infused with the flavor. It is then marinated in gochujang and cooked at your table with ddok, mushroom, potato slices, onion and herbs. In addition to the regular dishes of panchan, this is served with a bland vinegar-turnip kimchi soup, ice-cold.

After the meat is eaten (and it was really delicious), the adjumma then puts a bowl of leafy greens, rice, corn, chopped carrot and a handful of dried seaweed on the griddle where it soaks up the leftovers and fries up. Finally, a boiling bowl of jiggae is brought out, flavored with white pepper and leeks.

This is the third variety of duck I've had in Seoul; though it's hard to argue with the stuffed roast duck I had in December (or for that matter the table-grilled smoked duck in September), this may be the best so far. Still, Peking Duck in actual Peking has to top the duck list. Although, for duck shoes, I'll continue to go with LL Bean.

I hung back after many folks left to do a little drinking with Lee Gum-cheon, who was late due to playing soccer with his homeroom class. At about 8:30 we went down the road a little to a bar called Meka for 2nd course with about four other teachers, all young guys.

I'm not great with names, and I'm even worse with Korean names, so you'll just have to know there was a Mr Han, Mr Hyo, another Mr Lee and some other dude, who is a henpecked husband (with the Asian alcohol blush), who only stayed as long as he did because he dreaded going home to his wife. He agreed with this characterization.

We talked about Korean history, mainly, with Mr Lee translating, until the subject of makkuli came up. I am a well-known makkuli fan, as were two more of our congregation, so we moved on to 3rd round (w/o translator Lee) in a downstairs makkuli bar. Curiously, at this point, math teacher Mr Hyo, who had spoken about five words of English, seemed to become remarkably more proficient. While not up to the best Korean English teacher standard, he did just fine.

This is exactly what irks me about English here--everyone wants to speak the language, but no one wants to give it a try! As if one can miraculously absorb new linguistic structures like, say, articles, and suddenly master pronunciation of sounds completely absent from your native tongue.

Anyway, the 해물파전 haemul pajeon, or seafood pancake, at this place was even better than the one we get over in Bongcheon--loads of shrimp, not overcooked even though they were fried until the batter browned. The makkuli was good though not equal to that of the brewmaster of Bongcheon. And home before eleven!

Sunday, March 15, 2009

The Rest of the Story ...

So, after the horse races on Saturday, our little group ventured north into the Naked City in search of sustenance--you work up an appetite squandering a combined 120,000 W or so. We debated our choices along the way: dalk galbi, shellfish in Sillim, but just about when the train rolls in to Bongcheon, Andy goes, "How about lamb skewers?"

Well, I am not one to turn that down, firstly because I love that stuff, but also because it automatically entails a visit to the world's coolest makkuli bar just down the street. The lamb was great, as always, but the makkuli bar was our most amazing experience yet!

Here is what the place looks like from outside:

makkuli bar in Bongcheon
First of all, we were heralded into the inner sanctum, the shoes off, low table room that we assumed is reserved for the cognoscenti. Soon thereafter, an older couple came in, and the man started a conversation with us--partly in English, but mostly using We-yun to translate. Though, frankly, both Nick and Andy seem to acquit themselves well in the native tongue.

Anyway, we got quite friendly with the guy, who was a fellow teacher. Hell, he gave Andy a massage:

Andy gets jiggy with our Korean defender
Now, soon after this is when things get hinky, and the story goes into drama mode. Some guy comes in and starts trying to chat with Nick--since he's quite visible through the window into the sanctum sactorum, due to where he's sitting. Well apparently, the guy was just trying to pick a fight, and ALL the other patrons in the place try to get him to leave us alone, and/or go away. After all, we were just enjoying some makkuli and chatting with them--no heroine was injected, no AIDS transmitted or children molested during our visit.

Things escalate, all in Korean, and the massage guy eventually goes out and pile drives the asshole guy into the pavement. A few minutes later the Police roll up in their little tiny car and behave in a completely ineffectual manner.

They leave, and the jerk comes back. This time, pretty much the whole bar spills out onto the street, but our defender takes a hit from the bad guy's cycle helmet, wielded as a weapon. Fucker. So his wife puts him in the car and takes him home.

Then the police return, and continue doing nothing; the guy starts to talk to me, and I don't really understand what he's saying. Later, I gather that he said ship-pal to me, which is particularly ugly in Korean--it's just as well I didn't catch that at first, because they deport foreigners for kicking Koreans in the balls. Owner-dude apologized to me, which I really appreciate.

About this time, it's getting to 11:30 and we decide to leave--I want to catch the subway, even though it turns out I had to take a taxi from Sindorim again. At least this time, I knew enough to choose my own taxi and pay the real fare.

Monday, February 9, 2009

That smell, that foreigner smell ...

I spent the better part of my waking hours Sat. and Sun. with rival blogger Literary Hero, and all I can say is "The foreigner smell is disgusting."

That comment is gratis Andy, who overheard one adjumma say it to another on a street corner in Itaewon early Sunday afternoon, when I met up with him for some hair-of-the-dog at Gecko's Terrace. Itaewon is a commercial district densely populated with US military and other foreigners. Now, I pictured we'd eat breakfast, have a few beers, and call it a day. Instead, we were each lucky to make the last train home.

We started at Gecko's, which is a pretty nice polished-wood kind of place with comfortable chairs and low tables, where we had the big platter for 12,500 W (about USD 9.15) and a couple of beers. Then to 3 Alley, which I've mentioned a few times before. Then on to Nashville Pub, and finally we played darts for cigarettes at Seoul Pub. Each move was accompanied by a drop in atmosphere and half a pack of cigarettes.

And this was a follow-up to a repeat of lamb skewers and makkuli in Bongchon on Saturday night, the idea being a little get-together before I head to Tanner's Beijing for a week's vacation. I was really jonesin' for some more of that lamb, and it did not disappoint. Below is a pic of makkuli bar owner-dude writing a calligraphy sign that reads, according to Andy, "Closed for special rest time." We had, as they say, a good ol' time.

Andy's makkuli guy doing calligraphy
Not a very productive time, however. So today, I had numerous things to do, the last of which--but certainly not least, dear reader--was updating the blog. So here I am, after working out, mailing off my US bills, converting a couple thousand yuan (which they pronounce rien in Korean), and cleaning the flat. After all, who wants to come home from vacation to find a big mess? Not I--I want a special rest time.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Lamb and Makkuli in Bongcheon

Bongcheon is one of the poorest areas of Seoul, near Seoul National University, but it has a nice Chinatown area with lots of small restaurants. Friend Andy showed me a little hole-in-the-wall joint which serves lamb kebabs. Cooked over coals at your table, in typical Korean fine dining style. Ten skewers were 8,000 W. You can see the trio of dry seasonings for dipping in the photo below. Once the lamb is cooked, you can warm the skewers on the rack:

Chinese style lamb kebabs in Bongcheon Delicious! We were met by Nick and Greg, fellow EFL dudes, from Nebraska, and eventually made our way to Andy's much heralded makkuli bar. Despite the build-up, it did not disappoint! First, makkuli, makoli, makkulli, or something, is this traditional Korean milky-white rice liquor, usually served in a bowl. It is slightly sweet but deceptively strong. I have only had it three times, but so far, I quite like it. Anyway, Andy has the ins in this local bar where the owner serves the real thing, country-style, and cheap, too. The conversation was lively and interesting, trending toward inebriated. Below left, Greg, owner dude, Andy; below right, me, owner dude, Nick:




The bar itself is small, but has an interesting decor, all designed by owner dude, who is a retired teacher. Notice the nose of the carving at bottom right.






table top in makkuli bar-note well-used bowlswall decor in makkuli bar
Wall art!Uh, follow your nose!

But, hands down, the best thing about this joint was the character below, who serenaded us with "Led Liver Valley" similar to a song popularized by Slim Whitman. And the best, best thing about him was he sang to us and then left soon afterward.


As is my habit, I left in time to catch the subway and avoid the enormous taxi fare. Or so I thought. For some reason, when the train got to Sindorim (green line), it just stopped and everyone had to get off and leave the station. I had to share a taxi with three other people, though we all paid full fare. A young girl spent five miles hanging her head out the window being violently ill. A colorful end to a full night here in the Big City.

Catching a cab at Sindorim